Why to people go surfing? I am writing my new show for Edinburgh next year about my travels round the world but I’m worried about the stuff I’m writing about, as I think you write your best stuff when you’re writing about yourself and stuff you really know about. I’ve only been surfing once, I don’t know anything about surfing, so it feel it’s not roght trying to write something entertaining about surfing when I don’t know anything about surfing. Saying that the show I’m trying to write is like a ‘travelogue’, like what Micheal Palin does, so it’s actually about stuff I don’t know much about or have only just experienced a little bit, the traditional Englishman abroad type thing, seeing stuff with fresh eyes and all that.
I thought it might help to write about surfing by looking at the history of surfing but it hasn’t I now just know a bit about the history of surfing, which doesn’t help me write about the bit of surfing I did. When I think about it I didn’t actually stand up on the board properly and was just kneeling down, so I technically I might not be able to say I’ve actually been surfing, just that I’ve used a surf board.
There is a whole surf culture in Australia, and surfers like the nice man who took me out don’t just have one board, but load of different one in different sizes for the different sizes of waves.
Surf boarders don’t actually ride the surf, they ride the wave underneath it, so they aren’t actually not surfing. They are waving.